Storm watching in Tofino and Ucluelet

Just like in Game of Thrones, winter is here, and on the coast that means storm watching. Every year from late November through to early March, nature will kick it up a gear and the coast will be battered and bruised by spectacular wintertime weather systems. Fierce rain, face melting winds, and massive waves crashing against the shoreline are but of a few of the delights the storms throw at the locals and brave visitors who want to experience this raw assault. Gumboots or other water proof footwear, toques, hats, rain pants, and rain jackets are almost a necessity at this time of year.

It is essential for readers to know that these storms are very powerful and very unpredictable. Rogue waves, changing gusts of high wind, and flying debris are part of the storm’s cycle. It is highly advised you take this into account and do not ever stand too close to the water’s edge or underestimate the potential for damage to and from nearby trees or buildings. There are lots of safe places from which to view the storms impact so don’t be a daredevil. Play safe.

Here are a few of my favorite places for a storm watch:

Chesterman Beach in Tofino is, for the most of the year, a lovely 1.5km walk along a soft sandy shoreline. This is a place where beginner surfers gather, people picnic, dogs play, the shorebirds gather, the views out to sea are glorious, and the sunsets will take your breath away. On the days when a storm has arrived, the skies are ominously grey, the sound of the continuous rolling waves is deafening, the 200 meter wide beach disappears, and the waves crash against the man made stone barriers set up to protect the properties. The storms bring in countless pieces of debris to add to the logs that sit like guardians on the beach for most of the year. Regardless of size, logs and debris are picked up by the currents, shunted back and forth or swept up into angry groups, bashing and crashing against one another before being deposited wherever the powerful forces from the sea decide to leave them. For some it is to become part of a new cluster of driftwood that will sit peacefully for another year, and for others it can be as a new addition to someone’s front yard.

A great view point for this extravaganza of wintry fury is the Pointe Restaurant at The Wickaninnish Inn, which is situated above a rocky escarpment at the northern most point of the beach. Here you can sit with a coffee or cappuccino and quietly thank your lucky stars for the comforts being offered to you. For the more hardy folk, you will find beach entrances at north and south Chesterman as well as other smaller entrance ways along Lynn Road which will offer you some degree of protected view points. Again, be aware and be safe.

Another favorite place to dance with the winter fury is Cox Bay. Throughout the year this beach is a favorite place for the more seasoned surfers. The beach is smaller and the general force of the waves throughout the year is a little more challenging than at Chesterman. When a storm is taking place, the waves are a continuous assertion of the ocean’s ability to dictate the lives of those who choose to make the coast their home. The waves are huge, thick, frothing things, immensely powerful as they rush towards the beach and properties. If the wind is battering the coastline you will be hard pressed to lift your head for any more than a few seconds at a time.

The Great Room at Long Beach Lodge is the perfect spot on Cox Bay to witness the storm’s tumultuous actions as it batters against the windows and drives the ocean forward to sneak up and attempt to swallow the patio and walkways to the beach. Breakfast, lunch, afternoon coffees, and a great dinner are served daily. With its spectacular fireplace heating the room, there is no better place to sit back with a cup or glass of your favorite beverage as the storm tries to blow the roof off the building.

Also on Cox Bay is Pacific Sands Beach Resort and, although it does not have a Great Room to experience the storm in plush comfort, it does offer a large grassy viewing area near the beach. This area will offer some protection as the storm pounds along the beachfront. Once you have had your fill of being beaten senseless by the elements, you can experience terrific fish and chips and other fare at the Surfside Grill attached to their property.

In Ucluelet, the area near the lighthouse at Amphitrite Point is the spot to catch the ocean’s thundering power as it beats against and over the rocky shoreline. This area is the beginning of the Lighthouse Loop section of the Wild Pacific Trail and there are many points along the loop that will offer a once in a lifetime storm experience. “Wild” truly is an apt word to describe the ferocity of the wind as it batters the coastal trees into contorted shapes. It will push the limits of endurance for those who wish to stay outside to experience a coastal storm.

Further to the west, starting at Brown’s Beach, close to the Black Rock Oceanfront Resort, you will find the other sections of the Wild Pacific Trail. The Brown’s Beach section of the trail will also offer many vantage points for the full storm experience. If, after you have clung onto a tree long enough, you want to call it quits, both the Float Lounge and the Fetch Restaurant at the Black Rock are perfectly positioned to offer you a warm, pleasant, and fulfilling experience of any storm taking place outside.

A final destination for the full storm experience is Long Beach within the Pacific Rim National Park. This 16km stretch of beach is fully exposed to the power of the wind and ocean. When storms are severe the ferocity of the wind and waves can lead to 20 or 30 foot long logs being thrown over the driftwood barriers and into the parking area. Although a thrilling spot to experience a storm, it is a place where awareness and caution are needed at all times.

If, after your time out in the wild coastal weather, you feel the need for a refreshment to calm your nerves or a nice location to replenish your internal resources, here is a guide to the food and drink establishments in both Tofino and Ucluelet.

Please give the powerful force of nature respect. It is way bigger than you are.

Bonus: If you persevere through the storm, you can be rewarded with scenery like this: